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BMX Bikes Explained?
This is the basics that all us BMXers know off by heart. So guessing by the title above if you know the name of the parts on your bike you didn't bother reading on... However if your new to BMX . Just starting out, or harder still if your child is just starting out and it's you paying for it the specifications and descriptions on this website can make little or no sense. This article is here to help you decide what BMX bike will suit you, or your child's needs.

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1. The Frame
All bikes start at the frame. Entry to Mid level BMX bikes use Hi-Tensile steel. Look for 4130 Chromoly or Cr-mo for more strength and less weight on higher lever bikes. Butted and/or heat treated 4130 is better still.
2. Forks
The same principle applies here as it does to the frame with regards to material. Look for CNC'd steerer tubes for greater strength and durability as well as tapered fork legs for weight savings.
3. Handlebars
Nearly always referred to as bars. Same principle as the frame and forks when it comes to material. 4130 cr-mo is king. Also look out for heat treated and/or multi butted tubing for better weight to strength ratio.
4. Headset
There are two types of headset.
(a. Aheadset - this is the older style with external cups found on entry level BMX bikes.
(b. Integrated - The bearings cups are integrated into the frame for greater strength while saving weight.
5. Brakes
With or without brakes is the question? Some BMXers use them and some don't. If you are new to BMX get a bike with a rear brake. Some newer Mid to Pro level bikes now come with removable brake mounts which solves the problem
6. Front Hub
If you are in any way seriously into riding look for sealed bearings in these for more durability. If you are just starting out then an un-sealed front hub will be fine as you learn but they do require more maintenace.
7. Rear hub
There are two types of rear hub; (a. Regular or freewheel hubs which use screw on freewheels (anything from a 13t to a 16t) and the more reliable (b. Cassette hubs which use anything from a 8t upwards and are built into the hub itself. Again look for sealed bearings in these if you have some BMX experience.

8. Gearing
The relation between the front sprocket and the rear freewheel or cassette hub. The smaller the sprockets are the more clearance you get when grinding or riding ramps and the lighter it will be
9. Rims
The outside part of the wheel. These come in standard single wall or double wall versions. Double wall offers more strength and will last a longer than single wall types.
10. Tyres
Usually wider on the front than on the rear. However some street bikes now offer similar sized tyres on both the front and rear to offer some grip and cushioning on the back. After-market branded tyres are best here.
11. Cranks and BB's
Cranks Usually take most of the abuse on a BMX bike and need to be strong enough to match your level of riding. Look for tubular 3 piece options with splined spindles being better. Splines offer protection from cranks wearing out and coming loose.
There are many types of BB's . USA or American being the largest and usually using unsealed bearings, found on entry level bikes. Mid BB's and Spanish BB's are both smaller and in most cases use sealed bearings which last ages longer.
12. Pedals
Really there are two types of pedals; the longer lasting alloy ones and the lighter plastic pedals
13. Seats
There are two types of seats now. There is the traditional railed seat or the lighter pivotal types. The pivotal seat is usually found on higher level bikes to keep the weight down. Plastic pivotal seats will again save some weight.
14. Stem
The bit that holds the handlebars to the forks. All stems are comparable in strength but look for CNC'd stems on the mid to Pro level bikes for weight savings.


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